1x3 Sawhorse Desk

simple sawhorse desk plans
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Easy to build sawhorse desk is doable by most any DIYer! Using standard off the shelf lumber, a premade project panel for the tabletop, you can build yourself a solid wood sawhorse desk for a fraction of retail costs! Features two large bottom shelves, two smaller shelves.  Full plans include everything you need to build for yourself with step by step diagrams, shopping and cut list

simple sawhorse desk plans
simple sawhorse desk plans
simple sawhorse desk plans
simple sawhorse desk plans

Why We Built this Project

My friend Whitney from Shanty2Chic wrote me about building a Sawhorse Style Desk for her son's room, I had just the plan for her!

 

Much better!

 

 

This entire room is DIY!  Find the Free Plans

You can get more building plans/details on:

Tips and Tricks for Building this Sawhorse Desk

Here's from Whitney:

I am so happy with this desk! It cost me under $60 to build which is 1/10 of it's cost at RH Baby.... Woohoo! It was extremely easy to build, and I loved using the project panel as a desktop.  I think this desk works great for my 6 year old and will easily grow with him for many years... If I don't steal it for my own room! ;-)

There's a few tricky cuts, but I know you can master them. Just follow along with the plan, read through very carefully and make sure you understand each step before getting your saw out. And I know you will have yourself some beautiful sawhorses in no time at all! In this plan, I just use a standard 24" x 48" project panel available at most hardware stores. But for you can also use a 1/4 sheet of 3/4" plywood, boards, Kreg Jigged together - even an old tabletop or door! Make this plan your own and build it to suit what you have on hand.

 

PS - Wanna see what a DOUBLE sawhorse desk looks like?

image from Tommie and Dellie

 

Free Plans to Build your Own Sawhorse Desk

 

Dimensions
sawhorse desk plans
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 4 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 4 feet long
  • 1 - 1x12 @ 4 feet long
  • 1 - 24" x 48" pine project panel
Common Materials
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
Cut List
  • 8 - 1x3 @ 29" Both ends beveled at 10 degrees off square,ends are parallel to each other, long point to short point measurement
  • 4 - 1x3 @ 9 3/8" Both ends beveled at 10 degrees off square, ends are NOT parallel to each other, long point to long point measurement
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 24"
  • 2 - 1x12 @ 24" corners are notched out - ASSUMES 1x12 is 11 1/4" wide - adjust if yours is not
  • 2 - 1x6 @ 24" corners are notched out - ASSUMES 1x6 is 5 1/2" wide - adjust if yours is not
  • 4 - 1x3 @ 4 1/2" Both ends beveled at 10 degrees off square, ends are NOT parallel to each other, long point to long point measurement
Cutting Instructions

The success of this plan is greatly dependent on being able to make nice beveled cuts. A miter saw is highly recommended for all beveled cuts.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Jigsaw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Start by marking the insides of each leg up 1 3/4". This will be the bottom of the bottom support to leg joint. Then attach bottom supports with either a Kreg Jig or with screws and glue.

Step 2

Now the tricky part that I talked about earlier. What I would do is use a precut beveled board as a guide and carefully mark out the notches. Then either use a jigsaw set for 10 degree bevel to make the angled cut or use a handsaw. The cross cut (cut that is made against the grain) is a straight cut and you can use a handsaw or jigsaw set square - don't worry if it notches into the bottom board a little - the support boards will cover all this up.

Practice first on a scrap to make sure the cut fits within the sawhorse as shown in the next step.

Step 3

Once you are happy with your cuts, attach bottom shelf in place.

Step 4

Now mark 1/2" in from each side on top boards and attach legs to top.

Step 5

Step 6

Mark each leg 16 3/4" from bottom along inside edge. This is the bottom of the bottom shelf joint. Attach in place.

Step 7

Step 8

And attach the top!

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

MI_Guest (not verified)

Wed, 06/06/2012 - 20:59

I've been looking for permanent sawhorse plans and this has the perfect thing.

I may put a third one in the middle as I'm going to replacing an old (1962 kitchen table) that holds my plants during summer, on the porch. The shelves will be great to hold extra pots, soil and the like.

Milca (not verified)

Tue, 07/17/2012 - 04:08

I have an IKEA tabletop sitting in the basement that I didn't know what to do with. Its still good, but couldn't get myself to find a use for it nor throw it out. This will be great for a secondary worktable! Thanks for the plans.

Patmcfadden (not verified)

Tue, 09/25/2012 - 05:41

Any further instructions for step 4? Seems impossible to use Kreg jig and assemble at that point (get the drill and/or jig close enough). What am I missing? Thanks!

patmcfadden

Mon, 10/22/2012 - 19:02

Can anyone provide further instruction on step 4? Using the Kreg jig to attach legs in this step seems really difficult. How do you handle that tight angle? What am I missing? Thanks.

ryan mcdermid (not verified)

Thu, 11/08/2012 - 06:09

Kreg has a driver that is longer. Something like 5 or 6 inches. I didn't have any issues with the angle and I was worried as well. The other thing you can always do if your drill is too big to fit in there is to use a scew driver that accepts different scre heads and fit the kreg driver head in there and hand tighten.

Jake

Sun, 01/20/2013 - 19:24

If anyone is interested I was looking through the latest FLOR Catalog (floor coverings) and on page 41 is the sawhorse desk.

Jake

Sun, 01/20/2013 - 19:28

Personally I would just drill the PHs on the outside of the legs, fill them with vinyl spackling and then paint. You will never see them and you eliminate the hassle of trying to use a screwdriver with the square bit or a power drill in the tight space. Also if you stain the PH is really kind of artistic.

Jorge Velasquez

Mon, 10/14/2013 - 21:06

I totally love this project, which is why right after reading it I went to the hardware store and bought myself a jigsaw and some lumber to start making it. However, after trying many times to do the beveled cuts for the legs (and just for the legs), I haven't been able to make the first straight cut! Any tips on how to do it? Is a jigsaw the right tool for the job? I really can't afford to buy a mittered saw just for this! Any sawhorse plans that don't require beveled cuts would be great too!

Kevin Wentworth

Thu, 08/11/2022 - 09:55

Would be helpful to see revised build instructions on Step#1 to include drilling the pocket holes needed at the tops of the legs during Step #4. This would make it far easier than trying to drill the holes after the bottom support and the bottom shelf are installed.

Seasonal And Holiday

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!